Meat Meet Nizza, Nizza Meet Meat
A slice of Arrosto alle Nocciole, served with a glass of Nizza DOCG.
We’ve explored the land of the Monferrato and the Asti Monferrato hills that are a UNESCO World Heritage site in a previous article. We have also talked about the UNESCO heritage of Italian cuisine, and also piemontese cuisine and food in the Monferrato with an appetizer recipe and a mushroom pasta recipe.
And now, for the next recipe in our series exploring Italian cuisine, it is time to move on to the entrée, or secondo as known in Italian. Again, much like in the nearby Langhe, most second dishes are based on meat: beef, pork, chicken, and rabbit are all common to find on tables.
Why is our appetite whet for meat? It’s Andrea Ivaldi’s doing! When we were speaking with him during our VeroTalk about his wines, and we got tasting the rich, structured 1613 Nizza Barbera wine we asked what would he pair it? The first thing out of his mouth was meat, one with lots of flavor and richness to match the structure of this bold red wine.
Nizza DOCG: Ready to Discover
The Monferrato is often overlooked in comparison to its famous neighbor the Langhe and its aged red wine DOCGs (the highest level of Italian wine denominations) Barolo and Barbaresco, but the Monferrato has its own aged red wine DOCG as well (other famous DOCGs from the Monferrato are the sweet Moscato d’Asti and Brachetto d’Acqui). Seeing as the Monferrato is home to some of the best barbera wines in the world, it seems fitting they offer the Nizza DOCG, an aged barbera wine almost like a riserva.
A relatively new DOCG, it was codified in 2004, it is named for the heart of the Monferrato, where four generation winery Ivaldi hails from, the town of Nizza Monferrato. Made in only 17 cities, or comuni, this red wine must be made from 100% barbera grapes and be barrel aged for a minimum of a year.
An example of how to tie up a beef roast for this recipe.
A big red wine with soft tannins, winemaker Andrea Ivaldi says it can easily hold in the cellar for even up to 30 years, definitely competing with its neighboring Barolos. As well for wine pairing, it favors Italian secondi entrées. As well, with the world famous Alba White Truffle, a wine like the Nizza 1613 can also hold its own against the highly aromatic truffle.
A Piedmontese Classic: A Pot Roast Recipe for the Ages
Arrosto alle Nocciole, or Beef Roast with Hazelnuts, is a classic dish from Piedmont, Italy, where hazelnuts are a staple. A versatile recipe, you can serve this hot, right out of the pan, or, to make prettier cleaner pieces of meat, you can also rest the roast overnight in the fridge. Chilled, the roast becomes much easier to slice. To reheat, simply warm the gravy in a skillet, place your 1-1 ½ inch thick slices in the gravy, making sure they are covered, and let everything warm up together, occasionally adding broth and turning the roast pieces to prevent sticking or burning. Serve when the slices are warmed through and soft.
As well, this recipe works great as a beef roast recipe in the crock pot! Just put it on in the morning, then pull it out and make the sauce at dinner time. Also great for hosting dinners, you can make it the night before and just warm it up ready for your guests.
As an added bonus pro-tip about this recipe, Vero collaborator, Jacqueline Mitchell, who worked for 10 years as a cook in Piedmont, says “when you make the hazelnut paste, don’t feel you need to use it all in the sauce if you feel the flavor is too strong! Any leftover or unused hazelnut paste with a little sugar and cacao powder for a sweet Nutella-like treat called Gianduja to serve with cake or cookies for dessert.” Talk about an added benefit… maybe we will “accidentally” make too much hazelnut paste next time we serve this dish.
The Hazelnut Connection
There is a reason that so many Piemontese dishes, like this arrosto alle nocciole, use hazelnuts as ingredients: that is that the hazelnuts from the Langhe are famous all over the world. In fact, certain types of hazelnuts, like the “nocciola trilobata” that some farmers like the woman owned Silvia Martini, are one of the foods and products that are protected by Italian law!
Hazelnuts from the Langhe are prized not only for their intense flavor but also for the way they add depth and texture to savory dishes: ground into a crust, blitzed into a paste for sauces or as pesto, or folded into stuffing, they bring a subtle sweetness and toasted richness that lifts slow‑cooked meats and roasted vegetables. In the hills of the Langhe and close to Barolo country, farmer and chef Silvia Martini grows these IGP‑certified “Nocciola Trilobata” hazelnuts with organic, regenerative practices, producing nuts that are especially expressive when used in arrosto alle nocciole and other Piemontese dishes.
Wine Pairing with Arrosto alle Nocciole
When considering wine pairing with entrées and secondi, thinking about the differing strength or delicacy of flavor, textures, and spices and seasonings, variety is key. A four generation winery like Ivaldi in Nizza Monferrato has a little bit of something for nearly meal! Between all their versatile and varied wines, you can find something for every dish, and every person. Aperitivo? Try bubbles and their Andrea Alta Langa. A mushroom pasta like our recipe last week? Try a fresh, young red like the single vineyard Piccona Barbera d’Asti. A nice steak or roast for an entrée? An aged complex red like their Nizza DOCG is a unique alternative to nearby Barolos or Barbarescos and will be a wine pairing to remember. Finishing off the meal with a little dessert? Sweet wines from Ivaldi are delicious to pair with, such as their Moscato d’Asti and Brachetto d’Acqui. No matter your need, dish, or personal preference, Ivaldi can help you serve a great authentica Italian meal… from start to finish!
A cozy Italian beef roast, with a hazelnut gravy, ready to enjoy with a glass of 1613 Nizza DOCG.
When we were chatting at our VeroTalk from the Ivaldi’s wine cellar in Nizza Monferrato, moderator and wine educator Mary Beth Vierra asked winemaker Andrea Ivaldi his recommended wine pairing with the Nizza DOCG. He right away talked about how well this wine goes with meat, like big roasts, or even steaks on the grill. Andrea mentioned aged cheeses like the Piemontese cuisine staple Castelmagno or the pungent fontina pair well with this wine. However, he said it is also great on its own, as a meditation wine, to thoughtfully sip with friends after dinner.
We also love to pair this Arrosto alle Nocciole with wines from the Langhe, as it is a dish that is also deeply traditional in that nearby area as well. In this neighboring region the same hazelnut‑heavy cuisine finds a natural match in Aldo Clerico’s elegant, vineyard‑driven Barolos from a classic Barolo, or single vineyard crus like his Barolo Serralungad’Alba andBarolo Ginestra. These age‑worthy Nebbiolo wines mirror the structure of the Nizza, with firm tannins and aromatic complexity that stand up beautifully to the hazelnut‑laden gravy and succulent slices of roast. For a more versatile, everyday pairing, try the Langhe’s version of barbera, with a Barbera d’Alba; great if you want to extend the wine list beyond the Monferrato and into the heart of the Langhe.
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Arrosto alle Nocciole - Italian Beef Roast with Hazelnuts
Cooking and Prep Time: Several Hours
Ingredients:
1 Beef Roast (such as for a pot roast)
3-4 large Onions
2-3 Carrots
2 Celery stalks
1 sprig fresh Rosemary
1 sprig fresh Thyme
2 cups Red Wine
500g Hazelnuts or 2-3 tablespoons of Hazelnut Pesto
as needed Salt/Pepper
as needed Broth
Optional: 1 Garlic clove
Suggested Wine Pairings
Ivaldi | 1613 Nizza Barbera Red Wine
Procedure:
1. Begin by tying off your roast to make it easier to manage during cooking. Sprinkle all sides with some salt and pepper. Using a splash of olive oil in a tall dutch oven or pan and sear all sides of the roast over high heat.
2. When browned, cut your onions, carrots, celery, and if desired garlic, in large chunks and scatter them around the roast in the pan. Chop finely the rosemary and thyme together and sprinkle them over the vegetables with more salt and pepper. Keep occasionally stirring the vegetables and turning the roast.
3. Once the vegetables are starting to soften, add the red wine and stir the vegetables well. When most of the red wine has cooked off, add broth to come about halfway up the roast, then cover the pan and let simmer over low to medium heat for several hours, at least 3-4. During this time, occasionally turn the roast for even cooking and stir the vegetables.
4. While the roast cooks, prepare your hazelnuts for the gravy. In a food processor, pulse the hazelnuts into a fine paste. The nuts themselves will have enough natural oil to create this paste, so trust the process and keep pulsing. When a peanut-butter like texture, set aside for later. If you are using the hazelnut pesto instead of whole hazelnuts, skip this step and just use the pesto as is from the jar.
5. The roast will be cooked when easily pierced by a fork. When this happens, using the strings tying the roast together, gently lift the roast from the pan to a cutting board and cover to let rest while you make the gravy sauce.
6. Remove the pan from the stove and using either an immersion or stand blender, begin to blend the contents until homogenous and fine. Pass through a strainer or chinois to remove any last chunks, then put the gravy back into the pan. Add your hazelnut paste a little at a time, mixing well and tasting until finding the perfect mix for you.
7. When ready to serve, gently remove the strings and gently slice or break the roast into pieces and serve with the hazelnut gravy over the top.
8. To make prettier cleaner slices of meat, you can also rest the roast overnight in the fridge. Chilled, the roast becomes much easier to slice. To reheat, simply warm the gravy in a skillet, place your 1-1 ½ inch thick slices in the hazelnut gravy, making sure they are submerged, and let everything warm up together, occasionally adding broth and turning the roast pieces to prevent sticking or burning. Serve when warmed through.
N.B. This recipe is courtesy of Trattoria Risorgimento in Treiso, Italy.
